Have Media Will Travel » backpacking

To Get My Feet Wet, or To Not Get My Feet Wet? Lessons in Leadership from the Arctic

Shelli — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 22:41:32 +0000

Last August I experienced two weeks of backpacking in Alaska’s Brooks Range and Arctic National Refuge. It was epic.

Greetings from Alaska's Brooks Range.

By epic, I mean the experience was life changing and unforgettable. It was beyond scale. The scenery was epic – truly, out of this world. The people with which I shared the experience – who started out as strangers and would become some of my dearest friends – are epic. The experience of learning outdoor leadership, and wilderness travel skills from the world’s best teacher, National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), was epic.

But by epic, I also mean the experience required, at times, heroic effort. The weather was variable, ranging from blue sky with warm sunshine, to falling snow and high winds on mountain passes, to cold and torrential rain, for hours at a time.

The terrain could be unforgiving. We ascended very steep slopes to pass over mountains six times during the two weeks, and planting our feet firmly on layers of loose rock on top of loose rock – rock that was often made even more slippery as a result of being wet from rain – was mentally trying and physically exhausting.

If not over mountain passes, then we hiked on the Arctic tundra, which included large sections of tussocks. These are like “balls” of vegetation that are connected to each other and deeply rooted. The best way I can describe hiking in tussocks is each step you take sinks deep into a sponge-like surface. This foot then feels like it’s been trapped/entangled in the plant. When you pull out each foot to take another step it feels as if somebody underground has his hands around your ankle, determined to not let you have your foot back. (BTW, there should be a Dr. Seuss book written about tussocks if there isn’t already.) According to my research, there are five trillion tussocks in Arctic Alaska. Not wanting to embellish, I would suggest we hiked through about 2.5 trillion of them.

If the tussocks weren’t challenging enough, we also hiked through alders. Imagine hiking in and out of, and through, thick, sharp brush that is about eye-level, for miles. It was slow going, laborious, and had the effect of getting poked and stabbed by a stick several times over. (Thankfully, the scenery was fantastic.)

Finally, there were rivers. We crossed and hiked along river valley bottoms for much of our adventure. While easier than hiking through tussocks and alders, river hiking presented its own challenges. Specifically, it often meant wet feet.

One of NOLS’ core curriculum components is the “leader of the day.” During an expedition, on a particular day, someone will be assigned leader of the expedition for that day.

Two days into our expedition, we divided into two separate hiking groups. Each day, the two groups would choose their own routes and we’d meet up at the end of each day to set up of camp, eat, learn and rest before continuing the next day.

At the first chance, I offered to be a leader of the day. (I am not sure this was the brightest thing to do. After all, we still didn’t know each other very well. We wouldn’t know each others’ personalities, strengths or weaknesses, etc., until later in the course.) But I was eager to experience the role of leader of the day to see what I could learn.

I should mention here that one of my goals during the NOLS course, which I shared with our group at the outset of our expedition, and indicated on my application, was to learn to be more experienced and confident at crossing rivers. In my personal wilderness endeavors, as well as in the business I’m building, I will occasionally be required to lead people across rivers. When I showed up for my NOLS course, I was very uncomfortable around rivers. I was hoping this course would change that.

The day I was “leader of the day,” there were no mountains to climb, but we had about nine miles to hike. While we had options for how we’d get to our next campsite, the route would pretty much follow the river bottom. Well, as leaders know, leaders don’t do all the work. In fact, the best leaders delegate, and share responsibility of the mission. At the start of our day’s trek, I assigned various tasks and responsibilities to the members of our group. I asked Antonia (“Toni”) to take point, which meant she would make micro-route decisions and lead us on our way.

Right away, Toni led us through the rocky bottom of the river, and across the river. And back across the river again. And, across it again. (Repeat several times.) Along both sides of the river, were tundra and/or brush through which to hike. Antonia was choosing to stick to the river bottom. It made sense that she would want us to avoid hiking in squishy tundra or through poking, harsh brush.

Antonia was my tent-mate, and the night before she had explained to me that despite all the research and what most other people say, she rather prefers having wet feet during her hikes. In fact, in her previous NOLS course, wet feet actually served her. As we continued criss-crossing the river, at times getting our feet wet, I started getting anxious, especially as I recalled what Antonia had told me about the value of wet feet.

An experienced long-distance day hiker, I didn’t agree about the wet feet. Every time I had ever hiked with wet feet, it was problematic. Wet feet meant blister-damaged feet. So the prospects of wet feet, at the start of what would be a pretty long day of hiking, was not sitting well with me. Furthermore, we had 11 more days of hiking. Our feet were important assets. Blistered feet can spoil a trip.

So, about a mile into our hike, I called a quick huddle and voiced my concern about spending so much time in the river and stated that I was concerned about having wet feet and the prospects of blistered feet. Antonia presented a good argument for continuing, pointing out that it was easier travel than the tundra, and that in fact, wet feet can be refreshing and restorative.

But, determined to want to change course and follow the tundra right alongside the river, I pressed on. The team obliged. (It meant a lot to me for my team to support what I was suggesting and asking for, despite the fact not all of them agreed or felt the same as I did.) I was grateful – and relieved.

So, out of the river we went. Antonia chose a game trail alongside the river. During the minutes following, while hiking single-file alongside the river, I reflected on how my “leadership” was going so far. Something didn’t feel right. I felt as if I had just micro-managed. I had delegated Antonia point, and yet almost immediately I questioned her route decisions. I began questioning my leadership ability and the “executive decision” I had just crafted to get us hiking outside of the river.

As I was reflecting on all this, I was noticing that the tundra was passable, but miserably so. The writing was on the wall. It became clear that the best route was through, and back and forth across the river. Antonia had been right.

But, then, returning to my thoughts, I was very confident in my belief that protecting my feet – and the others’ feet – was critical. We had barely started what could be a 60-mile hike. I reasoned that taking steps to ensure our feet were not wet and blistered was wise. Furthermore, as leader of the day, I was responsible for our group and ensuring we carried out the day’s mission. If I were to become handicapped due to blister-damaged feet, then I would become a liability. Liabilities don’t make good leaders. I felt quite compelled about all this, so as we walked in the spongy tundra, it offered some comfort to me.

But… Then… I remembered something: That one of the reasons I enrolled in this course was to become more comfortable crossing rivers. Damn.

I asked myself, was this re-routing about me not wanting to get my feet wet (literally), or was it about me not wanting to get my feet wet (metaphorically)? Of course it was both, but in fact, what had driven my decision to press for getting out of the river was more the result of my discomfort of being in and near rivers – exactly the thing I was in the Brooks Range to confront and overcome. Upon this realization, and as the spongy tundra was getting increasingly frustrating, I concurred with Antonia’s original choice for our route, and, back into the river bottom we went.

Antonia did a stellar job of leading. Our feet survived. I grew as a leader because after reflection, I chose to do the uncomfortable thing, and in doing so, I improved my outdoor skills as well as my confidence around rivers. Another reward for hiking through the river bottom, which we would not have enjoyed had we chosen an alternative route, was one of the most amazing sights of the expedition – a huge formation of blue ice that covered a portion of the river. (See photo below)

The day and our mission was a success. In addition to making it to our campsite in good condition, we saw our first caribou of the trip, indulged in wild blueberries, discovered fresh bear tracks, and cool moose and caribou horns along the way.

It was all upside. I am grateful to my Brooks Range NOLS peeps, to our instructors (Lauren and Amy), and to NOLS for my experience and the leadership development that occurred for me.

Note: I’ve attended many leadership conferences and events. The leadership development I gained during my NOLS course is unmatched. Hands down, NOLS provided me with the best leadership training, ever. The Leader of the Day component, while significant, was just one small part of the leadership learning that occurred for me throughout my course.

PHOTOS FROM MY LEADER-OF-THE-DAY DAY:

Antonia and JJ, checking out a spectacular blue ice formation that covered some of the river.

Instructor Amy Davidson, pointing out a fresh bear track.

My team.

Me, trying a horn on.

Checking out a cool caribou antler.

A lighter moment: Chris, getting poked by an antler-wielding instructor named Amy.

Our other half, approaching camp.

Shelli Johnson is a life/leadership coach. Her business, Epic Life, offers coaching, consulting and an option for a guided epic adventure. Email her if you’d like more information.

My NOLS Brooks Range Hiking Course: Not a Vacation or Guided Tour

Shelli — Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:23:23 +0000

In Alaska's Brooks Range.

Greetings from my beloved Frontier of Wyoming. I am re-entering upon returning from my National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) course in Alaska’s remote Brooks Range and Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

For two weeks, I backpacked a country that is so big and unending and wild and spectacular that there is no way I can adequately communicate or share its magnificence.

A place like Alaska’s Arctic National Refuge and Brooks Range, and an experience like a NOLS course, changes people. I am not the same person.

I have many interesting stories to share. While I am still “unpacking” all that I gained from the experience, here is a list of the main take-aways.

1. A NOLS course is not a guided tour or a vacation. It is hard, but it’s one of the most fulfilling things I’ve ever done. When I sign up for hard things, I grow. This was hard for all kinds of reasons, and as a result, I am more than I was before.

My hiking group on top of a snowy pass, after a hard uphill effort.

2. Longing. As a mother of three young sons, I found the hardest part of the NOLS course was not having any contact with my family. I now know what it is to “long” for someone. I am better for enduring it, though, and I hope my doing so may inspire other women who are mothers to consider a NOLS course.

Photo note from the Brooks Range for my husband and sons.

3. Expedition Behavior. This is one of the concepts for which NOLS is famous. On my course — spent with “strangers” and in bear country where bear precaution protocol means you can’t do anything without three other people near you at all times — learning to pitch in and do whatever it takes to move the group forward was critical and one of the most valuable skills learned. I see significant value in applying EB in all areas of my life.

Expedition Behavior at work!

4. Route-finding. We did lots of macro- and micro- route finding in the Brooks Range, a region that has no roads or trails. Map reading and route finding were a major part of my course. If we didn’t do it well, it was costly. Nothing like climbing the wrong pass or ascending or descending the wrong drainage only to realize you should have spent more time thinking it through and studying the maps, right? (Chris said it best when he said, during a particularly lengthy map check: “I don’t think it’s a waste of time for us to figure out where we are.”) Like in life, we can charge ahead with our heads down, choosing a route without looking ahead or considering the big picture. We can choose a path in life without being decisive, and just sort of wander and hope we end up at a good place. Or, we can look at the big picture — the features of the landscape before us for as far as the eye can see – and then choose micro routes based on factors such as rewards, risks, time investment, certainty, consequences and other factors or features. This was one of my favorite aspects of the course, particularly how it applies to my life, since I am choosing to not follow a trail.

Route-finding was a favorite aspect of the course for me.

5. “Leader of the Day.” Our group of 10 divided into hiking groups of five each day. Each group was led by a “leader of the day.” I volunteered for this early on in the experience. While our hike was considered a success and I received positive feedback during the debrief, the day wasn’t easy for me. Despite the “success,” and my hankering for leading, I felt ineffective on a couple of fronts. It was humbling. I had many learnings during that day, which are already serving me in my life. The LOD component of a NOLS course is invaluable, and I plan on getting vulnerable in sharing my LOD experience with you in an upcoming post.

Each of us was Leader of the Day at least once.

6. Active Followership. This is another of NOLS’ well known leadership skills. Because I prefer to lead — I favor ownership and responsibility — I looked forward to learning about “active followership.” Turns out that I’m often an active follower due to my non-directive style of leadership. But mostly, this skill is an intriguing one, and I will be posting about it.

Hiking near Lake 4352, with caribou up ahead.

7. Bear Precaution Protocol. Wow. This is a good story to tell! Alaska is bear country. A lot of leadership skill development simply happened as a result of being required to always have three people with you to do anything, which, most notably, included going to the bathroom, but also for simple tasks like retrieving a camera from a tent or needing to communicate something to a member in another group that was in the tents when you were at the kitchen or the other way around. This aspect of our course also provided some humorous material, some of which I’ll be happy and excited to share in a story on this blog in the future.

This is supposed to be funny.

8. Baking and Cooking in the Brooks Range of Alaska. I never imagined I’d leave my NOLS Brooks Range Backpacking course with cake mix and flour on my outerwear, but that’s what happened. NOLS courses follow a “pantry-style” food rations system. We don’t bring freeze-dried foods or s’mores. We had bags of flour, brown sugar, cornmeal, powdered milk, pancake and cake mix, quinoa, pasta, cous-cous, cereal, granola and a pretty generous spice kit. Meal time was a big deal, then. Not only were we hungry and motivated to “lighten our loads” by consuming the food we were packing, but pantry-style cooking involved measuring and combining – and being creative. This often meant breakfast and dinner, from set up to clean up, each took about two hours. The cooking and baking and creating with our course-mates was an unexpected pleasure of the course that facilitated not only meal preparation but intimate bonding and time for great conversation with one another.

Baking in the Brooks Range.

9. 24 Hours of Daylight. Well, more or less, it never got dark. At home in Lander, WY, I’m a morning person. I rise at 5 am and am in bed by 10 pm. On my NOLS course in Alaska, we would wake up between 7:30-9 am and often eat dinner as late as 8-10 pm. Often we didn’t get to our tents for bed until midnight. If we had nightfall I am not sure I could have adjusted. Certainly it would have been interesting to see me try and operate on such a schedule! But given it was light all the time, it was nothing to adjust. I found it wonderful to have so much light and yet it was so perplexing when I would be visiting with one of my course-mates in broad day light, and it was midnight! I did not sleep well, despite being tired and comfortable and for the most part, warm. It may have been due to the daylight, although I doubt it since I often had my head buried in my sleeping bag. When I returned to civilization, I saw author Tim Sanders quote someone saying “I haven’t slept for 12 days. Because that would be too much.” Oh how I can relate. That is my story for the Brooks Range. Fortunately I did get lots of rest when others were sleeping. And as someone once told me, I can sleep when I’m dead. I was in Alaska’s Brooks Range after all!

This was the closest thing to nightfall that we had.

10. Rainbows. We saw several rainbows during our backpacking. Each was magnificent. My favorite was one that lit up its end (a bunch of orange lichen-covered rock on top of a pass we had just ascended) and another on our second-to-last day of hiking that filled the bowl of a black granite peak. Often we were above the rainbow, which provided a pretty cool vantage.

Indeed- there was gold at the end of the rainbow.

11. Variable weather. The weather for our two weeks was phenomenal for backpacking. That said, we experienced all four seasons on our course. Probably we had more spring and fall than winter and summer. Most days, at least for some short duration, we would have on our full rain gear, but not too frequently. On one day, we ascended a mountain pass in falling snow. On our two layover days of the trip there was enough sun to get more freckles on my face and even get de-layered down to a short-sleeved shirt and shorts. Mostly it felt like Autumn though. Much of the tundra’s floor was “crispy and crunchy” and there were lots of golds and burnt-red leaves. I like to be in control. The weather is something I can’t control. For this reason I am fascinated by it and welcome its variety. I also like the way the weather, depending on its mood, changes the feel of the moment as well as the look of the landscape. The variable weather did all of this for us in the Brooks Range.

Watching the clouds was fantastic.

12. Physical challenge. I am in good physical condition. My passion is long distance day hiking and I live at an elevation of 5,280′ and hike at altitudes ranging from 8,000′-12,000′. I didn’t expect my NOLS course to be much of a physical challenge for me. Still, it was physically demanding. There were two days that involved ascending mountain passes in rain and/or snow that had steep angles and loose rock on rock, followed by a long, unrelenting descent in a rocky gorge. These days, combined with the usual work of the course (setting up and breaking down camp, packing, and other chores) were challenging. Overall the course was a good physical challenge. Certainly this is a huge benefit of a NOLS course — using the outdoors and an awe-inspiring natural setting as a platform to improve your work ethic and your health.

Hiking in soft tundra, through tussocks, across rivers, and up steep mountain passes was physically demanding.

13. Leave No Trace. I know we didn’t! Learning and applying the Leave No Trace principles in a place as undiscovered and vast and wild as Alaska’s Brooks Range and Arctic National Wildlife Refuge was a critical component of the NOLS course. I have much to share about LNT and examples of our implementation of LNT, including one of our biggest fails — and the low point of the entire course for me — when a Dig-It went missing. Long story short, we found it. But the stakes are high with LNT. We don’t mess around. NOLS taught us/me well when it comes to LNT.

We left no trace on the beautiful landscape of Arctic tundra.

14. The People. As I waited to meet my course-mates, I wondered, nervously, “What kind of person would sign up for a NOLS Brooks Range Backpacking course?” I was eager to meet these new people but also nervous. Turns out that I have some new friends in my life that I view more as family than friends. I will never forget any of them and hope we can keep in touch forever. To share such a meaningful, unique, hard experience together in a magical setting, is really something to treasure. Our instructors, too, were off the charts and also a part of this new family. I didn’t enroll in the NOLS course for the people I would meet. But it turns out the people on this course enriched the experience in ways I could never have imagined.

My Brooks Range family.

15. Evening Meetings. Every evening, as part of the NOLS experience, we had evening meetings. These provided a time for announcements to be made, tips & tricks to be shared, and discussion around the next day’s schedule. Then, one of us would have a 15-minute “spotlight,” which was a time to share your life story. There was also usually a poetry reading or a sharing of a chapter or small essay. Sometimes one of us would read something interesting in a naturalist’s book about something we saw during the day. The evening meeting was an intimate time for our group and it was really a great way to end each day.

Evening meeting.

16. Classes. A NOLS course is not a guided tour or vacation. There is a lot of instruction provided in outdoor skills, wilderness travel, environmental ethics and leadership. There were often classes held in the morning before we hit the trail, or in the evenings, and on our two layover days. Some classes were optional. There were classes on leadership styles and skills, knot-tying, cooking, stove-repair, map reading/gps use, first aid, and others. One class was “Alaska: Sense of Place.” This was presented to us during a layover day with the Chandalar River in the background. It made the experience complete because we were able to better understand the place we were in and how it came to be.

Knot-tying class.

17. Unforgettable Moments. The moments of this trip that are unforgettable include “swimming” in the Brooks Range, skipping rocks in the Chandalar River, watching four little waterfowl take off from Caribbean blue waters of Lake #4352 as hundreds of caribou ran across a hillside in the background, standing on a pass and being above a rainbow to the left and in falling snow with sunshine piercing through on the right, “sledding” down a bunch of shale/scree, playing gin rummy under the fly in a downpour, the smell of Labrador tea while hiking in the tundra, the taste of wild blueberries, the almost-constant sound of running water from a nearby river or a babbling brook, watching the clouds move down a ridge and “fill in” the fronts of a peak we could see from our tents, chocolate chip, brown sugar and granola pancakes with peanut butter on top, listening to poetry with kindred spirits in a magical place, posing with antlers against my head, coffee in the morning, looking at scat full of berries and small bones and trying to figure out the story, baking my first backcountry cake, the unique and fabulous signature “bear calls” each of us had, hearing rain pitter-patter on our tent all night long, the first time I set up and operated the camp stove with no assistance, the vanilla sky on our last night in the Chandalar River, walking up and through a small-but-dramatic gorge, the “moment of silence” upon ascending our final pass of the trip — a point that symbolized our “going home,” hiking under the moon and a handful of stars during our 2 am “hike to the highway,” our tailgate coffee party on the road at the end of the trail/course, and the really deep conversations I shared with each of my course-mates at various points of the course. And there are so many more.

A moment in silence at top of our final pass.

18. I’m A NOLS Graduate! I was raised here in Lander, WY, where NOLS is headquartered. One of my only regrets was that I never took a NOLS course. (We plan to send each of our three sons on a NOLS course when they’re 16.) I love what NOLS stands for and am a cheerleader of NOLS. In my work and travels, I’ve often met people who are NOLS graduates. They always are leaders in their fields, which I think is no accident. During the last year, I’ve been going through a bit of a “reinvention”, and many folks I know who work at NOLS (Jeanne O’Brien, Bruce Palmer, Kat Smithhammer, John Kanengieter, Brian Fabel, Rick Rochelle, and others) told me, “it’s never too late.” My NOLS experience was everything I had hoped it would be, and more. Truly. I had high expectations for the course and they were exceeded. I am fulfilled to be among the graduates and in this “club.”

19. Jaw-Dropping, Inspiring Scenery. I will be inspired for the rest of my life by the sights I saw and experienced in Alaska’s Brooks Range. I feel honored and privileged to have been a guest.

Tundra.

20. NOLS Leadership Curriculum. NOLS is famous for its leadership model that utilizes the outdoors as its classroom. A big motivation for my embarking on a NOLS course was to learn and experience the school’s leadership curriculum. I was not disappointed! I learned about NOLS’ 4 Leadership Roles (designated leadership, peer leadership, active followership and self-leadership) and its 7 Leadership Styles (expedition behavior, competence, communication, judgment and decision-making, tolerance for adversity and uncertainty, self-awareness and vision and action). It’s funny; I got my money’s worth from the leadership classes and curriculum, but I also reaped a lot of leadership development benefit that just happened due to the fact I was dropped by the side of the road in the Far North to backpack for two weeks with “strangers,” having to follow strict bear precaution measures, cook and bake together, struggle together, etc. For this reason, NOLS’ is truly a brilliant model.

Instructor Lauren teaching us about Leadership quadrants.

21. Personal Video Interviews with my course-mates. Meet the interesting friends I made on my NOLS course and hear from each of them what they gained from the experience. For starters, here is mine:

MUCH MORE to come here in the next days and week.
Part 2: My Brooks Range People Made Me Better
Part 3: Epic Adventure — And Longing

If you’d like to see videos or photos, help yourself here:

Videos

Photos – part 1 of 2

Photos – part 2 of 2

Havasu Falls turns to Yosemite

Shelli — Sat, 09 May 2009 14:47:37 +0000

As I posted recently, my plans to go on a quick backpacking adventure to Havasu Falls abruptly came to a halt. The Havasupai Tribe has cancelled all camping reservations, and access, to the remote waterfall region in the Grand Canyon west region during the month of May.

Bust?

My friend, Sabrina, and I had planned the trip as a belated celebration of each of us turning 40. Havasu Falls is a ‘bucket-list’ item for each of us.

So for the last couple of days, we have been in a scramble to find a Plan B, given our flights into Vegas have long been booked.

It couldn’t just be any Plan B. It had to be epic. Havasu Falls would have been epic.

We can’t do Zion, or Grand Canyon, because I only recently returned from these regions. And, our scheduled flights won’t allow enough time to travel all the way to the North Rim to hike.

Thankfully, last night I discovered that Virgin America has $95 dollar roundtrip flights from Vegas to San Francisco.

Bingo! Just like that we have an epic Plan B. We’re going to Yosemite!

Yosemite HD Video 5/4/09 from Chris Falkenstein on Vimeo.

It will be a quick trip, but we can’t wait. It will be a first for both of us.

We just launched MyYosemitePark.com. For several weeks I’ve been reviewing great images, videos and content about the national park. And well, what can I say? I’m completely inspired and intrigued and feel a need to experience its grandeur firsthand.

So that’s what we’ll do.

Stay tuned. In a week or so I’ll be beaming it all to this blog.

In the meantime, I’m telling you firsthand that there is no vacation like a national park vacation. They’re my favorite and we have many in the West. Start planning a memory-making trip that won’t break the bank to a national park. Although Yellowstone, the world’s first, is my all-time favorite (I’ve been there probably 200 times), they’re all unique and special in their own way. Grand Canyon, is an abyss carved by the Colorado River that is 277 miles long and 10 miles wide. Start planning the fun here!

Swine Flu stops Havasu Falls trip

Shelli — Sat, 02 May 2009 13:12:09 +0000

Dang.

A friend and I have had a backpacking trip to Arizona’s Havasu Falls planned for a few months now. Our flights have long been booked and we’ve been excitedly talking about and planning for our trip.

Havasu Falls(also called Havasupai) is a remote waterfall in the Grand Canyon West region that is a sight we’ve both wanted to see.

We planned the trip as a belated celebration for each of us turning 40. We’ve been talking about the 10 miles we’re going to hike with backpacks on, and, in particular, about the two days of leisure reading and soaking in pools while getting misted by waterfalls. We’d work hard and then we’d enjoy some sweet relaxation. It would be brief, but epic. A quick but perfect adventure.

Not anymore. Thanks to the Swine Flu.

No. I didn’t get the Swine Flu. But I did get a message on my cell phone yesterday evening from the Havasupai Tribe that our camping reservation has been canceled, along with all access, until June 1.

The message didn’t say why; it just delivered the bad news. When I tried calling the four numbers I found on the internet for camping information, they all rang busy all night long. I’m sure there are hundreds, if not more, who are as bummed as I am about the closures.

A Twitter user, I posted a tweet asking the twitterverse about the closure, and within a few minutes @marianmarbury responded it was the Tribe’s effort to try and prevent Swine Flu was penetrating their small, remote community.

Well darn.

I guess we could do what most women who turn 40 probably do… consider a spa weekend? Nah, I’d feel guilty. This was supposed to be an adventure with some hardship but mixed with leisure and great natural wonders, not a catered splurge.

I recently returned from major trips to Zion National Park and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, the remaining options for short-yet-epic backpacking adventures that can be accessed from Las Vegas, which means our options are limited.

For now, Havasu Falls will remain elusive, and an item on the lifelist.

Any ideas for us, please email me. Thanks in advance.

Angel’s Landing Hike in Zion National Park

Shelli — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 11:54:08 +0000

Zion Trip, Pt. 2

Wow. I knew Angel’s Landing was exposed and that as a result of its heights and exposed nature it was to be an adventure.

Important Information.

We had been to Zion a few other times but as a family. Our sons are small so we had been (wisely) advised to stay away from Angel’s Landing… until the kids grow up.

But in early March, Kathy and I were going on a girlfriend adventure vacation and Angel’s Landing would be the “big star” on our itinerary, around which everything else revolved.

Holding on for dear life.

We got to the trailhead around 7 am to get an early start. We highly recommend that hikers start early. This way they’ll get to enjoy the views and the trail in solitude. I can’t imagine what it would be like hiking the narrow ridge to the top of Angel’s Landing if there was a line of hikers coming up and down. You don’t go hiking in a national park’s backcountry to be pressed and crowded. You can sleep in another time. (Or so we thought…)

We started up. It was pretty mild. A climbing and switchbacking trail to be sure, but nothing too tough to start. However, we had hiked to Observation Point the previous day which was 8 miles roundtrip and a gain/loss of 8,000 vertical feet. So we were “warmed up” anything this hike would throw at us.

Angel’s Landing is a 5 mile, roundtrip hike. For the first two miles, it’s a climbing trail but on a good trail that isn’t scary. Then, at two miles, the trail’s personality changes, big-time.

When we arrived at a narrow slick rock ridge that had chains/cables on which to hold, I thought to myself: “This must be where we get our money’s worth… This must be what all the fuss is about.” Even though I’d heard it was exposed and that small children shouldn’t go on the hike due to heights, for some reason I wasn’t mentally prepared for the reality.

Chains to hold onto.

I think it’s safe to say that Kathy, a flatlander from Omaha, was even more surprised than I was.

We ooohed and aahhhed and took in the views in all directions. I knew we hadn’t received the prize yet, but I think Kathy thought we had reached the end. Certainly the views were breathtaking and spectacular. The views at that point would have met my expectations in terms of scenery, no doubt.

But then when I was capturing some video I noticed that the cables/chains went all the way up, much further over a knife’s edge and to a precipice about a quarter mile away, yet.

The Prize â€“ well worth the anxiety.

Kathy’s response when I pointed out the cables that followed the very narrow steep ridge to the “top” was priceless. But she’s a trooper and we were off.

It was a thrilling adventure that left us anxious at times. The views at the top, and all the way up and down really, were striking and beyond words. The beauty was worth the hike, and all of the anxiety is stirred in us.
For an 8-minute clip of the “middle” of the Angel’s Landing Hike/Trail:

Zion National Park or Bust

Shelli — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 14:48:04 +0000

(Zion Trip, Pt. 1)
In early March, I met Kathy, from Omaha, in Vegas. Our destination was Zion National Park.

I was looking for an adventurous getaway where I could capture some video for the MyZionPark.com website we’re working on while getting some great hiking and sightseeing in. It would be a short adventure vacation.

My husband, Jerry, and I and our sons had been to Zion a couple of times. We had done some serious hiking even with our kiddos, including the 8-mile, steep Observation Point hike. But that had been about 5 years ago and I was eager to do it again, and this time with a digital camera and Flip Video in tow.

Most exciting was our plan to hike Angel’s Landing. On my previous trips with our kiddos, Angels Landing had not been an option. But, since I first learned about it, it beckoned. It’s been like an itch that needs scratched.

Kathy is a chiropractor and is married to my cousin, Jody Kloewer. They have three kids. I was a bridesmaid in their wedding in 1990, and Jerry was a groomsman. That’s how Jerry and I met, so Jody and Kathy hold an extra-special place in our hearts.

Kathy, my partner in crime.

Kathy is in great shape, is a real trooper, loves nature and photography as much as I do â€“ and very important, she has an easygoing (great) personality. I knew if she accepted the invitation to join me, it would be a fantastic trip. Also, did I mention she’s a chiropractor? That can come in handy on a hard-charging hiking trip.

Getting our rental car.

So, we met in Vegas, rented our yellow Corvette and off we went toward Zion.

In a few hours we were pulling into the Desert Pearl Inn, our home for the next four nights. Desert Pearl Inn has loads of raving reviews on the internet, and many people claimed it’s the best place to stay while visiting Zion. By the looks of it, I was sold and we booked our stay.

Desert Pearl Inn, near Zion National Park.

Normally I’m only interested in a clean roof over my head, especially on these hiking adventures where not much time is spent in the hotel and all I need is a bed to plop on and a shower to clean the grime off. But this time, since we’d be hiking hard, I figured we’d splurge a little. What the heck, we’d be deserving of nice accommodations.

Some people, including myself before this trip, would say that a hotel can’t really be a reason to visit a place. Until this trip, I agreed. But Desert Pearl Inn made me change my mind. Desert Pearl Inn is situated under the shadows of the towering Watchmen red rock cliff and its back yard is cut by the Virgin River. Our room had a balcony with deck and we had the luxury of the sounds of a babbling brook in the background thanks to slightly-opened windows during sleep after a long day on the trails. But that’s not all. We had a kitchen, a wide screen television, big comfy beds, wood floors, great earthy and rustic interior design, and even a â€“ get this â€“ bidet.

Beautiful, spacious rooms with comfy beds.

A bidet you ask? Well, being a small town girl from Wyoming, I definitely didn’t know what it was. It looked like a mini-me version of the toilet, but it had a faucet. Hhmm. But after Kathy told me how it’s pronounced (It’s French and it’s pronoucned bee-dey), I sensed whatever it was, it was special and it was a luxury to have one. Suffice it to say it’s not a small sink for your kids…

If you’re visiting Zion National Park or the other national park wonders accessed by southwestern Utah, Desert Pearl Inn offers truly a wonderful retreat after a day of exploring nature’s wonders.

Why Camping is My Favorite Family Activity

Shelli — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 19:21:20 +0000

Jerry and I have three sons, Wolf, 9, Hayden, 7 and Fin, 2. My favorite thing to do with the family is camping. I just love it. It’s a way to get close to nature, get dirty, find things to do that are not artificial or expensive, and typically the best campgrounds/campsites don’t have cell signals.

People who know me and know how I love gadgets and all of technology’s wonders don’t believe it when I say it, but I sometimes like it when my cell has no bars. It forces me into isolation, which is what I want, but often have a hard time surrendering to.

Camping at Grand Canyon.

We recently camped for most of our Spring Break vacation. Except for yurt stays the first two nights, which were fortunate given the blizzard conditions, we camped 4 nights.

The boys love looking for treasures, finding and collecting rocks and other interesting items, climbing trees, helping build a fire, making s’mores, reading aloud to each other, playing ball, looking at the stars and everything else that comes as part of the camping package.

My parents rented an RV from CruiseAmerica in Salt Lake City and toured some of Utah’s national parks on their own before meeting up with us on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon for a few days.

Our boys w/Mommom & Poppop at Grand Canyon.

Boy, did they arrive in comfort. What a great idea and business CruiseAmerica has. My boys fell in love with the RV and truth be told they much preferred that to tent camping. Some of the fond memories from the camping time with their Mommom and Poppop were the walks they took and helping my parents find their way with walkie-talkies after getting lost and disoriented several times. : >

Great times to be sure. We can’t wait for the next camping trip.

Here’s a short video that captures the essence of our camping experiences:

Hiking in & out of Grand Canyon in Same Day

Shelli — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 21:22:09 +0000

The first sign is right at the start of the South Kaibab Trail: WARNING: Do not attempt to hike to the bottom of the Canyon and back in a single day. The signs are numerous, and for good reason.

South Kaibab Trailhead

We had seen them all before, though, 10 years earlier when we had embarked down the trail, and despite their warnings, had survived to tell about it.

You see, my parents had agreed to meet up with us for the Grand Canyon part of our Spring Break. They rented an RV for the first time and the plan was they’d watch our boys on Tuesday, April 7, while Jerry and I attempted to hike the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch (at the Grand Canyon’s bottom) and back out via the Bright Angel Trail. We were pretty certain that we were not in as good of condition as we were the last time we did this. After all that was before we had kids and during a time when we were training for our first 50k trail run. Still, given the fact my parents would be there to watch the boys, we couldn’t resist the opportunity.

Warning: Do Not Attempt to Hike to Colorado River and Back in One Day.

My dad was a trooper and awoke with us at dark thirty to drive us to the Bright Angel Lodge where we’d take the first hiker shuttle of the day, set to pick us up at 6 am. We’re early risers so this wasn’t a big deal. In fact it felt like sleeping in for us.

In the dark we swigged coffee while riding the shuttle to the trailhead.

It was beautiful out. The almost-full moon was still visible, and as we started down the trail in front of a few other hikers, I could tell it was going to be an epic day.

The biggest challenge about this hike isn’t the distance, although it’s long for a day hike. Certainly the elevation gain and loss is a huge challenge. We would descend 4,700 feet, and ascend 4,700 feet, all in a single day. Still, the elevation gain and loss is not the hardest part.

Halfway down.

The problem with this hike is you go down, and then you go up.

I live in western Wyoming. Mountain country. Every hike I take heads up first, then down. I’ve grown accustomed to working first then getting the reward. Hiking up in the morning, down in the afternoon.

Hiking to the depths of the Grand Canyon and out is the exact opposite. I know: Duh, it’s a canyon, not to mention a big, deep one. But it’s important to mention this because if you do this single day endeavor, there’s almost no way to avoid walking up hill during the heat of the day and on tired legs.

Here are a couple of short videos that show some of the trail:

So, while hiking down the South Kaibab Trail at a fast clip we were very much aware that what goes down certainly must go up. The South Kaibab Trail begins near Yaki Point on Desert View Drive. The first mile takes hikers down more than 1,000 feet and 1.5 miles to Cedar Ridge, where great views surround you, and a bathroom is available. The next 1.5 miles drops another 1,000 feet to Skeleton Point.

We took a gazillion photos and video clips on the way down and made some brief stops to let mules pass, as well as to strip layers as it became warmer as the sun rose and we dropped to lower elevations. In a little over three hours we were crossing the Black Bridge across the Colorado River, at 2,400 feet elevation. In all, we dropped about 4,600 feet on the South Kaibab Trail.

At that point all we could think of was the Snickers bar and lemonade that awaited each of us at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. But it was about another half mile or so before we could reap that reward. The Snickers and lemonade met our expectations and before we knew it we were back on the trail by 10:30 am.

We stopped on Silver Bridge to watch the huge volume of water rush by below us and to watch a few groups of rafters navigate their way down the green Colorado River. Boy, that looked refreshing. (Note to self: Figure out how to experience a rafting trip without having to wait a decade)

Bright Angel Trail is the most heavily-used trail on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
The bottom of the Bright Angel Trail starts out as a mellow trail that parallels the river for a mile or two before changing its mood and rising more steeply. Still, for the first half of it’s 9.6-mile distance from Phantom Ranch, it’s a pretty reasonable grade.

Jerry hiking up Bright Angel Trail.

About halfway up, near Indian Gardens, it gets a personality that’s wicked and unfriendly if not downright mean. After Indian Garden, it becomes a stairmaster for five miles. (If you must know, you still have 3,000 feet of vertical to hike up â€“ in just 4.6 miles)

Probably the cruelest part of the trail is when you reach the “3 mile house.” At this point you can see the teeny, teeny people standing on the Trailview Overlook waaaaayyy up above you and you are reminded in an “in your face” way the vertical distance you still have to travel. (Again, if you must know, there are still 2,000 feet of vertical to hike up.) It’s no accident â€“ or joke â€“ that there is a 911 call box on the side of the trail at this point.

911 call box.

The last three miles up Bright Angel are truly a course in character (and calf muscle!) building. Unless you hiked down in the wee early morning hours of the day and you’re a rapid hiker, you’ll be hiking this vertically-oriented section of Bright Angel in broad daylight and under the heat of the sun. Fortunately there is some reprieve from the sun against the rock walls.

And try as you might, you can see that there is clearly no other way up/out. It’s humbling to say the least. The sun was in full, not a cloud in the sky and we had hours and miles on our feet. We weren’t skipping anymore, and the smiles on our faces in the photos we snapped probably weren’t natural, if you get my drift.

Here’s a sampling:

The trail switches for a long distance, and of course you can see the switchbacks, which are not friendly ones. They are steep and seemingly never-ending. The scale of the Canyon’s rim towering over the trail is enormous. Hikers resemble ants, with their day packs or backpacks upon them, and appearing to be moving at a snail’s pace in a march up the mountain. A death march perhaps?

People hiking up at this point in the trail, regardless of where they’ve come from or how many miles are on their legs for the day, seldom say much. On the other hand, hikers descending the trail are giddy and skipping and seemingly oblivious to how the return trip is going to treat them.

Finally, we made it to the top. It took us a little over 9 hours. That includes several very short stops, mostly to take photos or to capture videos.

We don’t recommend this single day hike for people who are not used to hiking up and down mountains or for those who can’t take the heat. I would never recommend this during the summer, and in fact wonder how anyone could do it, or better yet, why anyone would choose to.

All that said, this hike remains one of our favorites. It’s a huge accomplishment to think at the end of the day that we started at the top and walked on our own two feet all the way down, across the Colorado and back up. Certainly it was a physical accomplishment, but also a mental one.

The Grand Canyon is one of the most studied geological landscapes in the world. It offers a record of three of the four eras of geological time. To walk down into and through this exposed and massive land erosion is quite the unique experience. I felt tiny and insignificant in the spectrum of time as I took in the great abyss that surrounded us.

To be sure, the aforementioned hike provides an interior view of the Grand Canyon that is unmatched.

Here is an 8-minute video that pretty much covers the entire hike: