I previously blogged about my recent Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim experience.
My friend, Jon Dorn, the editor-in-chief of Backpacker Magazine, is the one who invited me along and enabled me to complete the life list adventure. Here’s his video blog of our adventure.
This is POST 29 of my “fitness journey.” For backstory, see Post 1,
Post 2, Post 3, Post 4, Post 5, Post 6, Post 7,Post 8, Post 9, Post 10, Post 11, Post 12Post 13,Post 14, Post 15, Post 16, and Post 17,Post 18, Post 19,Post 20,Post 21, Post 22,Post 23, and Post 24, Post 25, Post 26, Post 27 and Post 28.
Here’s a short video blog I recorded after a recent epic hike:
Elemental Gym has a fantastic gym, some terrific programs and classes that will help you achieve better fitness. And, I might add, some great personal trainers: Steve Bechtel, Ellen Bechtel, Jagoe Reid, Sophie Mosemann and Lee Brown.
Me, hiking Jackass Pass, above North Lake.
I just completed a life list hike that’s in my back yard, Wyoming’s southern Wind River Range. As those of you who know me, or read this blog, know, I live for these “epic” hikes in the Wind River Range. This year I had a list of five major ones I wanted to do. Due to a late summer start (the result of local flooding and lots of snow accumulation in the high country), and more than the usual number of thunderstorms during the first half of August, I’ve been able to complete only two of the ones on the list.
Thankfully, the most coveted one on this year’s list is the one this post is about, which means I completed it.
On Monday, I hiked almost 32 miles in a day — from sunrise to sunset — from Big Sandy Opening, over Jackass Pass to the Cirque of the Towers, to Lizard Head Meadows, along the North Fork Trail to Pinto Park, to the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie, to Sheep Bridge and finally, to our destination, Bruce’s Bridge, just beyond Sinks Canyon State Park outside of my hometown of Lander, WY.
Along for the hike were two of my good friends, Holly Copeland and Kathy Swanson.
Although I had previously hiked all of the trails we would travel, except for a 3-mile stretch, I had never linked them all into one trip. In fact, unless you’re looking to challenge yourself, as we were, you could spend a week or two or three, easily, hiking and exploring the route we traveled and the sights we enjoyed. And of course, that is more reasonable. But I relish these endurance challenges that afford so many spectacular views in a single day, not to mention the great camaraderie and conversation that is shared along the way. And, the fact I’m only away from my husband and three young sons for one day, also makes these epic day hikes appealing to me.
But okay, let’s talk about the hike…
Kathy and Holly enjoy views of Big Sandy Lake right after sunrise.
The sun was up before we reached our first major milestone, Big Sandy Lake, a beautiful lake that is surrounded by Schiestler Peak, Temple Peak, East Temple Peak, Haystack Mountain and Big Sandy Mountain. The trail follows the northwest shore of the lake. I always like to stop at the big flat rock near the end of the lake just before we start ascending Jackass Pass. It’s a great spot to adjust clothing, snap some photos and snarf a quick snack…
The spectacular granite towers that form the world-famous Cirque of Towers reveal themselves while hiking across Jackass Pass.
The views are breath-taking, literally and figuratively. We’re talking jaw-dropping scenes. As soon as you’re beyond North Lake, you get a glimpse of Pingora, peeking through from the still-distant Cirque of Towers. To your immediate left, though, and towering majestically, is Warbonnet Peak.
We enjoyed views in all directions. Behind us was North Lake and the distinctive East Temple Peak and Temple Peak. And, unfolding in front of us were the towering granite walls and peaks that form the Cirque of the Towers. We were hiking in alpine tundra — a mess of vehicle- and small building-sized granite, a mess of rocks scattered throughout the alpine tundra, sprinkled with tiny wildflowers of all colors, and of course the aforementioned granite giants.
Jackass Pass travels through a mess of granite and alpine tundra, complete with lichen-covered rocks and wildflowers of all colors.
Before reaching the end of the pass, you descend a short but steep hill before ascending to 10,780 feet and the end of Jackass Pass. While making this last ascent, be sure to stop and take a look behind you at the aptly named Arrowhead Lake. This is one of my favorite views along Jackass Pass.
Holly and Kathy ascending the last stretch to the end of Jackass Pass. That's Arrowhead Lake.
At the end of Jackass Pass, we enjoyed our first actual break and sat down briefly to consume another snack and take in the views of Lonesome Lake and the Cirque of the Towers.
Group timer photo at end of Jackass Pass, above Lonesome Lake and the Cirque of Towers.
Next, we descended a small, steep hill and hiked around the south shore of Lonesome Lake.
Pingora, with wildflowers in the foreground.
From there we picked up the North Fork trail, named for the North Fork of the Popo Agie River and hiked to Lizard Head Meadows.
Kathy and Holly pause briefly in Lizard Head Meadows.
At Lizard Head Meadows, we stopped to watch a moose graze on the lush grasses and then continued on a trail that follows alongside the North Fork of the Popo Agie. This was an amazing stretch of trail: forested but with huge granite mountains to our right. It sort of made us feel as if we were hiking in Yosemite National Park, under and near the likes of El Capitan, but with one significant difference – our trail was lonely. It was almost as if we had it to ourselves. (We saw only approximately 10 other hikers, all backpackers, the entire 32 miles.)
The Monolith, towering over a calm stretch of the North Fork of the Popo Agie.
From here, the trail gets a little mean-spirited. It goes uphill. For a long time. Finally, we arrived at Pinto Park, a great expanse of lush grass, surrounded by forests and more granite peaks in the distance.
Kathy and I in Pinto Park. The uniquely-shaped peak at right is Lizard Head Peak, which is part of the Cirque of Towers. (My husband and I climbed Lizard Head in 1998.)
After more hiking, we arrived at the Middle Fork trail, which parallels the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River, the river that flows through my hometown of Lander, WY. There, we refilled our hydration packs with treated water and continued on.
Holly and Kathy, refilling their hydration packs at the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie.
Yay! We did it! 31.9 miles and finished without injury and with daylight remaining.
It was another memorable day in my back yard, and I will not forget it.
Here’s a video of the various segments of our adventure patched together. Enjoy!
I’ve been working with Elemental Training Center founder and personal trainer, Steve Bechtel, for several months now. Depending on what my goals are, and what season it is, Steve designs specific training programs for me that help enable me to perform at high levels.
Recently, during my Thursday session with him, he discussed the filter through which we should put most training programs up against. In the end, the best training program will be on that has evidence to support it.
This is POST 29 of my “fitness journey.” For backstory, see Post 1,
Post 2, Post 3, Post 4, Post 5, Post 6, Post 7,Post 8, Post 9, Post 10, Post 11, Post 12Post 13,Post 14, Post 15, Post 16, and Post 17,Post 18, Post 19,Post 20,Post 21, Post 22,Post 23, and Post 24, Post 25, Post 26,Post 27,Post 28 and Post 29.
Elemental Gym has a fantastic gym, some terrific programs and classes that will help you achieve better fitness. And, I might add, some great personal trainers: Steve Bechtel, Ellen Bechtel, Jagoe Reid, Sophie Mosemann and Lee Brown.
Taking quick break at top of Cyclone Pass, overlooking Shoshone Lake and much of the southern Wind River Range.
I just returned from my annual hike to Shoshone Lake above my town of Lander, WY. There’s no other way to describe this 22-mile hike. It’s a grunt.
The trail is not necessarily spectacular, and in fact much of it follows a two-track and is a popular ATV trail. Solitude isn’t the reason you hike to Shoshone Lake. But I’m not complaining!
As long as you’re willing to go uphill for a long time on a steep, rugged, loose and rocky trail, and then downhill for a long time on a steep, rugged, loose and rocky trail, then this hike is worth it. The rewards make it so.
Reward number one: Shoshone Lake.
A good friend, Kathy (Doyle) Swanson, of Casper, WY, joined me on the hike. We started beyond Sinks Canyon State Park, about eight miles southwest of my hometown of Lander, WY, at the base of Fairfield Hill.
We started at 5 am, with headlamps on, with a 1,000-foot elevation gain over one mile. Along the way to Shoshone Lake, we hiked through McMahone Park, by Pete’s Lake, Twin Lakes, and through the vast and awesome Shoshone Basin.
Shortly after hiking through Shoshone Basin and alongside a creek for a short bit, after about 11.5 miles of hiking, we arrived at our first reward: Shoshone Lake. The mountain lake is huge and scenic. For about a mile or so, we hiked along the lake’s shore.
The second, and biggest reward, is what one sees from the top of Cyclone Pass. And the effort it takes to get to this point makes it even more grand. (I’ve done this hike every summer for the last five summers. Every time, regardless of my fitness level, Cyclone Pass is a lung-buster.)
Kathy, hiking up Cyclone Pass. Here, she's almost to the top.
Basically, at about mile 14 of this epic day hike, we faced a rocky incline that climbs close to 1,000 feet in a little over a half of a mile. It’s a combination of where in the hike this uphill grunt presents itself, and its steep nature that makes it grueling. Every time.
No matter that this was my fifth time to see the view from Cyclone Pass. Every time I see it, I am overcome with emotion — i.e. goosebumps and happy tears. One thing I like to do when I have Shoshone Lake first-timer hikers with me is make them promise to not look back while ascending Cyclone Pass. The temptation is huge, if for no other reason you want to stop and catch your breath and take a look around.
I made Kathy promise me she would not look down or back. As far as I know, she kept her word. :>
When we got to the top I told her she could finally look behind her. Watching her take in the view for the first time was almost as great as taking in the view for the first time myself. She was stunned, as you’ll see in the first embedded video near the bottom of this blog post.
After about 20 minutes of taking in the views, taking some video and photos, and snarfing a gourmet PB&H “rollover,” we were on our way to Point B, the point at which my husband, his dad, and my three sons would await for us in a car that would drive us back into Lander.
Kathy, on part of the infamous "Chute." (This is actually the good part of it, though!)
The way back, although it’s almost all downhill, is not for the faint-of-heart hiker. “The Chute” is the most notable reason for this. It’s a 1.5-mile long section on what resembles a dried up creek bed — make that a downhill, dried up creek bed with extra layers of rock for good measure.
Here you walk on rocks and more rocks downhill. It seems like it goes for at least three miles, but it’s one and half miles. Trust me, that’s plenty.
We made really good time on this hike, but The Chute (Yourself?) always slows you down. You can only walk so fast on piles of rocks without turning an ankle or falling down.
We ended near the Switchbacks on Shoshone Lake Road, above Baldwin Creek road. Jerry and his dad awaited us at the top of the last stretch of trail with cold beers in hand (with our names on them.)
It was another awe-inspiring day in my back yard.
At the finish. (Notice the beverages in our hand. My wonderful husband was waiting with beers for us!)
Some video clips of the hike:
My family just returned from a week in Omaha, NE, where we visited my husband’s family.
Before departing for our trip, I upgraded from a Blackberry Storm to a Motorola Droid X. During my trip, I fell in love with my Droid X.
My Driod X is the droid I was expecting.
For one thing, as we traveled for hours across the wide state of Nebraska, the boys and I voice-commanded topics from which Google queried searches for us.
Our boys have inquiring minds. Among other things, they wanted to know if ghosts and/or UFOs had been reported in the vicinity, and also, how much blood a great white shark contains.
My Droid seemed happy to look these things up for us. It helped pass the time, and we gained new knowledge.
One of the most exciting things was when I, a small town girl — a country bumpkin — looked to my Droid to navigate and help me find my way to a Walgreen’s. It was rather exciting to hear my Droid voice her commands, left turns and right turns (and even u-turns when I made mistakes) and which exits to take.
And I found my way. The only beef I have is after such lengthy play-by-play navigation, the navigation’s voice should include a huge “Congratulations!” or “Nice Work!” Instead, all I got was “You have successfully arrived at your destination.” No duh. Oh well. Beggars can’t be choosers.
The funny thing is that in all the excitement, by the time I got to Walgreen’s, I totally forgot why I needed to go to Walgreen’s in the first place. So, I just bought some Gingko Biloba and was on my way.
I love my Droid. It is (more than) the droid I was expecting.
My husband’s uncle Gilbert is 82 years old. He has knee problems, glaucoma, and other aches and pains that commonly wreak havoc on people as they age.
Uncle Gilbert, 82, ready for a day of walking at the Henry Doorly Zoo.
But he is no ordinary 82-year-old.
Every summer we travel to Omaha, my husband’s home town, to visit his family. Omaha is home to the ever-expanding and awesome Henry Doorly Zoo.
Gilbert is a big fan and supporter of the zoo, and it’s tradition for Uncle Gilbert to take us to there while we visit. It’s a highlight of our trip, as the zoo provides hours of awe-inspiring sights, particularly for our three young sons.
We can hardly keep up with Uncle Gilbert, who with his trekking poles, despite the heat and humidity and hills, leads us all on our trek to explore the animals.
Seven days a week, Gilbert walks one mile, sometimes two. He does this at the zoo, or at Fontenelle Forest, or around one of Omaha’s many lakes.
I’m calling this post the Gilbert Johnson challenge. I am challenging you to walk one mile every day.
Come on, you can do it. Extend your life and improve your quality of life by incorporating some exercise into every one of your days. One mile is only 10-30 minutes out of your day. Walk to the office or the grocery store.
Are you living or dying? Gilbert is living. We should too.
(Thanks, Uncle Gilbert, for your continued inspiration!)
Here are my many other fitness-related posts.
Me, on the Bears Ears Trail. You can see by looking at Bears Ears Mountain behind me in this photo where the trail gets its name.
The Bears Ears Trail is one of my favorite trails in all of Wyoming’s Wind River Range. This is due to the nature of the trail and the views it provides.
After a little more than three miles of switchbacks through forest, the trail opens up into alpine tundra and hands out spectacular views as it ascends Adams Pass.
We had set out with plans for a long and epic hike that would include the Bears Ears Trail and the Lizard Head Trail as an out-and-back day hike that would total about 28 miles. Mother Nature had other plans, though. Thunder and rain crashed our party around 11 a.m., which meant we did not get to hike the Lizard Head Trail. It was still a phenomenal adventure I will not forget.
We had a generous winter this year, which meant on our July 21 hike, the trail was still wet in many places. We even hiked over snow a handful of times. But it also meant the wildflowers were amazing.
My husband, Jerry, and friends Holly and Leann hiking Adams Pass on the Bears Ears Trail.
Adams Pass is amazing in its own right. But the hands-down prize is the view hikers are provided after about seven miles of hiking. What hikers get to see seven miles into this hike has got to be one of the best views in and of Wyoming’s southern Wind River Range.
We hiked over some snow in a handful of places along the trail.
What you see is an awesome panorama of rugged country, including Mount Washakie, Washakie Pass, Bernard Peak, Lock Leven Lake, Chess Ridge, Mount Hooker, Mount Bonneville, and Musembeah Peak, which towers over Grave Lake.
We chose our turnaround point to be the area in front of a deep and dramatic cirque that lay directly in the foreground of the aforementioned view. We pulled just off the trail to what looked like a mess of huge boulders that fell out of the sky, leading to a sudden and deep hole/cirque. We all agreed you would not want to walk around this area in the dark!
Well, what more can I say? This was yet another epic day in my back yard. Another reminder of how lucky I am to live here.
My husband, Jerry, standing in front of a sudden cirque and an amazing, panoramic view of the southern Wind River Range.
NOTE: The trailhead is in Dickinson Park, about 37 miles northwest of my hometown of Lander, WY. The trail starts at about 9,300′ elevation and gains about 2,600′. It’s recommended you hike the eight miles to the junction of the Lizard Head Trail, and then scramble approximately 350 feet up to the top of Mt. Chauvenet, via its western slope. We didn’t on this day, but Jerry and I did so about 11 years ago and it’s highly recommended!
HERE ARE 3 SHORT VIDEO CLIPS THAT PROVIDE A GLIMPSE INTO THE BEAUTY OF THIS HIKE. ENJOY!
Blue Ridge Lookout is a short, but exciting hike for families, especially those who have small children. These are our boys.
I live in Lander, Wyoming, which is an awesome town with about 7,000 people in it, located in the foothills of the spectacular Wind River Range. Those of you who follow me and this blog are well aware of my love of this area and for hiking.
Recently, my husband, Jerry, and I took our three young sons on a favorite local day hike. The hike is only one mile round trip, making it an “easy adventure” for young children with small legs. (The hike starts at 9,600 feet elevation so there could be some effort and huffing and puffing even from the adults in the group.)
Family timer photo on top of the historic Blue Ridge Lookout.
The Blue Ridge Lookout was constructed in 1938. The views from the top are magnificent. Among other sights, you’ll see Wind River Peak and Atlantic Peak, Fiddler Lake and lots of forest. I have fond memories of making this hike with my siblings and parents when I was a kid. It is truly one of the best short hikes and picnic spots for families here in my back yard.
The trailhead is located about 23 miles southwest of Lander, along the Sinks Canyon-Louis Lake Road. The trail, which starts at about 9,600′ elevation gains about 365 feet by the time you reach the top of the lookout.
Note: Keep your young children on a short leash. This could be a dangerous destination for kids left unattended due to the heights of the lookout.
Here’s a short “video journal” of the day’s outing. It will provide visuals for the actual hike, as well as the lookout. Enjoy!
(Many of my friends and family already know I am a bit of a dork. For those of you who didn’t already think this, this video should erase any doubt.)
Three times a week during most of the year, I wake up at 4 a.m. to go to the gym to work out. Many of you have asked me how I’m able to get up so early. This video demonstrates how I do it.
Special thanks to my wonderful and supportive husband, Jerry, who not only endures the early alarm, but has coffee ready for me. (I can’t do anything in the morning without coffee, especially at 4 a.m.) Also, thanks to my wonderful mom for loaning me her cool pajamas and slippers.
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This is POST 29 of my “fitness journey.” For backstory, see Post 1,
Post 2, Post 3, Post 4, Post 5, Post 6, Post 7,Post 8, Post 9, Post 10, Post 11, Post 12Post 13,Post 14, Post 15, Post 16, and Post 17,Post 18, Post 19,Post 20,Post 21, Post 22,Post 23, and Post 24, Post 25, Post 26,Post 27 and Post 28.
Elemental Gym has a fantastic gym, some terrific programs and classes that will help you achieve better fitness. And, I might add, some great personal trainers: Steve Bechtel, Ellen Bechtel, Jagoe Reid, Sophie Mosemann and Lee Brown.
About Me…
Hi. My name is Shelli Johnson. I live out on the frontier in Lander, WY. Some of the things that excite me are my family, travel, media, technology, books, fitness and national parks. I’m currently chief strategist of National Parks Interactive and NationalParkTrips.com
This blog is about me, my interests, and my pursuit of unique travel adventures.
Occasionally I’m a keynote presenter at conferences such as EyeforTravel Online Marketing, eTourism Summit, Olympic Peninsula Tourism Summit, Go West, etc. Please email me if you’re interested: yellowstoneshel@gmail.com
National Park Trips
I’m chief strategist for National Parks Interactive and NationalParkTrips.com. We promote several national parks of the West, including Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Yosemite, Zion and Rocky Mountain national parks. Click here to learn more.
Yellowstone International
In 1994, with a lot of support from my parents and my husband, I founded this company, which publishes two print magazines, the Webby award-winning YellowstonePark.com, generates travel leads, and generates interest in Yellowstone Park and surrounding regions. This business is now owned by Active Interest Media and I remain a consultant to the business. Click here to learn more.